Cruising!

                                          Cruising the Adriatic and Other Things

       I lied to you all. We are now in our fourth country, San Marino, which is one of the smallest countries in the world. But first let me tell you how we got here.
       We left the pretty Croatian isle of Hvar and spend some quality time in Split. We had a couple of meals near the ancient ruins of Diocletian's Palace which they are restoring into restaurants, souvenir shops and bars much like many of our city centers are doing with their old train stations.
After wandering around, seeing the sights, killing time until our ship was ready to sail we were waiting, first in line, to go through customs and to embark on our night cruise across the Adriatic to Ancona, Italy.
       These boats are similar to Gulf cruise ships, complete with buffets, self-serve restaurants, fancy dining and casinos.

Ruins soon to be Restored

Our "luxury" ferry/cruise ship!!

We booked a cabin for the night and since I'm a bit claustrophobic, I made sure we had a cabin with a window. It gave us a great view of the Split coastline and of the lights of the various islands as we made our way out to see.

One Coastline of Split

Since it gets light early we saw oil tankers and fishing boats on the water below us on the horizon.
       We had a nice meal at the restaurant, checked out the casino and found that the smoke bothered us both and headed to our cabin.

Lynda's happy that I'm not driving!

After a good night's sleep we woke to public address announcer announcing we soon would be landing in Ancona. Since it was early we stopped at an Auto Grille for a brioche and an espresso. Our plan for the day was to visit the best pizza we have ever had in all of Italy at the Buffalo Brothers restaurant in Rimini.

The Best Pizza Around!

        Last year when we stayed in Rimini we fell in love with the place and they remembered us after we walked through the door. We talked with our waiter, Giovanni, about old times and ordered some delicious dishes before we had our pizza.

Our Friend Giovanni

Lentil and Barley Soup with a Black Olive Pesto

The Buffalo brothers make the buffalo mozzarella which is 100% better than regular mozzarella. Our pizza was delicious and since we were considered regulars we got special treatment. Not just bread with dinner but a special pizza bread they only give to their preferred customers. When our meal was over he brought out the limoncello, on the house, and a special pistachio sorbet, also gratis.
       After a ciao! to our friend Giovanni we headed up to San Marino, a country we found by chance last year and wanted to stay there if we ever got the chance. As is our luck it was a national holiday and parking, already at a premium was being denied by a policewoman. She did allow me to walk the  small streets to the hotel to see what we could do about our bags. After getting misplaced (men never get lost) I found the hotel and surmised that there was no way Lynda was going to drag our luggage up there. The proprietors of the hotel, after I told them I would have to cancel because I wasn't letting my wife walk up there with her bad ankles sent a man with me back to the car, bargained with the policewoman and then we drove up the mountain to the hotel and deposited our luggage. He drove back with me to another parking lot where I was able to park with a special pass for two days. Only in Italy.
       More about San Marino in the next post. It might surprise you.


      

Island Paradise

                            Croatian Islands: Very Pristine and QUIET!

       I've been to many coastlines but this one, after a two hour ferry ride, is very beautiful. It reminds me of the Amalfi coast, without the tourists, hustle and bustle and high costs.

Our Ship

       We started out at Split where we were pleasantly surprised to see another open market in progress. We bought some fresh strawberries and bananas and a few T-shirts. The market and the area around the many car ferries were a beehive of activity.

The Busy Market

Cars, walkers, hikers and tour busses went every which way, almost colliding withy each other. Twice we heard the squealing of tires and once a mother and child in a stroller almost got taken out.
       It was a relief for us to be on a boat heading across the islands that mark the Dalmation Coast. I guess you could say they are spotted with the islands along the coastline.

Lighthouse on one of the Islands

Our target island was Hvar and our target town the small municipality of Milna (means 'beautiful'). The water here is crystal clear, much likes the lakes we tromped around two days ago.
       Our host came across the sea also on a ferry to open the house for us where our apartment was. She came especially for us since we were their first guests of the season. Our place has one large bedroom, a kitchenette, a living/eating area and best of all a balcony overlooking the sea.

Sunset from our Balcony

A Cool Beach

I am presently at a beach restaurant writing this since the w-fi connection at our place had not yet been turned on. I'm eating grilled lamb as I write.

A Grilled Lamb Feast

       I braved the coolness of the water, much cooler than Texas waters at this time of year. It was a needed relief from the heat which we have found to be much greater than I expected. I put my swim goggles on and chased the fish around, or vice versa. Tomorrow we must leave this island paradise and head on a night ferry (we have a cabin for two booked) to Ancona, Italy.

I talked My Legs Into It: A Day in Plitvice National Park, Croatia

                                                The Never Ending Trail

       When I woke up this morning my legs and I had a long talk. I promised that if they held out for the day on the trails of Plitvice National Park that I would be kind to them the rest of our vacation. They agreed so Lynda and I set out to explore the wonders of the Park. This Park was once a river but through time and geologic phenomenon had caused the limestone to dam it up in several places resulting in sixteen lakes and waterfalls connecting them all, some small, some slow, some magnificent and some powerful.

One of Many Falls

The 'walk' took us about six hours to accomplish. This is 'my legs' story.
       We were full of pep, energy and anticipation as we trekked to the park's entrance.

Most of this was downhill on a gradual slope but we were reminded that what goes down must come up. We came across this unusual toilet which reminded me of days of yore in Europe where there was no functioning toilet seat, just places for your feet.

Ladies, would you use this?

       A large diesel train/ bus took us to the top of the trailhead and we were happy that mark had chosen to walk downward and not the opposite. This began our journey over hewn log walkways and stairs, through paths in the forest, around rock formations and over the water itself sometimes.

Rock Trails

Wooden Trails

      With each new lake there was a new set of waterfalls, making noise and crashing down below, sometimes on our feet and misting our bodies. We saw ducks cuddled up like Mark and Lynda often did.

We saw fish of all sizes swimming in the Amalfi Coast pristine clear water.

There were underwater rock formations which resembled the time we went to the islands off Mexico. Each new turn provided us with new excitement and a gathering storm of joint pain.
      At about two thirds into the trek we began to curse Mark and thankfully a boat was there to take us the length of the longest lake.

Thanks For the Boat

We were able to rest for a half hour on this electric boat. It seems that no one is allowed to fish, swim or motor in this set of virginal lakes. I overheard Mark saying North Americans should take a few lessons from the Croatians. This is probably why they have it listed as a World Heritage site.

      After a short break we were on our way to find the "Big Waterfall". On the map Mark held it looked like it was just around the corner, but after a few more lakes and a treacherous downhill it was not to be found. Lynda could be heard saying words children shouldn't hear as her feet were giving out on her. The only good thing is that Mark was saying, "not much longer, dear." We've heard that before, haven't we?

       We were pinching and throbbing but soon we saw the "Big Waterfall" and it lived up to it's name. Now only to find the train again.

A Welcome Sight

There it was and not too soon. Mark and Lynda were rewarded at the end with a few refreshments and strudels.

Another Welcome Sight!

We made it but we made him promise not to do this again. We can't wait until we have a day of driving tomorrow and perhaps a dip in the Adriatic. We deserve it.

Above the Rainbow

                                  Above the Rainbow: A View of Slovenia a Few Miles Up

       Everything about Slovenia on our last full day here was on the up and up. Before describing our day I need to say a few things about Slovenia. This is a diamond in the rough. It reminds me of Switzerland without the high prices. The Slovenian people are first rate, friendly and accommodating. Most speak good English which makes us, who are ignorant of their language, much at ease. They are simple people who live a simple lifestyle. Today I saw a man behind a horse holding a big iron plow making his garden for the summer. They stack up firewood in big racks set across the countryside so that all would have enough for the long cold winters. They eat well, drink well but exercise by using nature to their advantage. All in all they are wonderful and their country is beautiful.
     Today we climbed up the slope from the car to the castle's top.

The castle was disappointing as castle's go, as I have seen better ones in Germany, England and Italy. It had the obligatory knight in shining armor and blacksmith on the forge.

It had a moat and gate but mostly it was full of commercialization: restaurants, souvenir stands and a wine cellar that sold great wines at an outrageous price. We did manage to empty a couple of bottles there.

The views were priceless as we could see the entire lake which at the time we were there was full of scullers and the ever present quaint island that was at the end of the lake.

       We next got rowed out to the lake by a nice man who did this for his living from March to the end of October.

He took us to the island where we walked up the 100 steps to the pretty little church.

It was said to be good luck if you rang the church bell at least three times. We did just that. No need to tread on good luck.

       The next item of business was to drive to a small town at the end of Lake Bohinj, Slovenia's largest natural lake and find a restaurant for lunch. The place we chose was not disappointing as they lived up to the tradition of excellent cuisine. We had a beef goulash, full of beef medallions that melted in your mouth.

Before eating our waiter came and asked us if we could have some freshly baked bread. When he brought it, it was steaming hot and it also melted away with each bite.

        Now it was the time to put Lynda's faith in me to the test. I wanted to take the cable car up the Mountain so we could view Mt. Triglav, a peak of some 10,000 feet. She hates these rides and wouldn't even go up the CN tower, the Tower of the Americas or the chair lift at Capri, choosing to sit at the bottom and wait for my return. However I convinced her that she had good luck. Buying the tickets for the car while she was in the restroom, I was able to get her to go. She was terrified on the way up but seeing the top of the world and having a hot chocolate with a mountain of whipped cream made the ride down more peasant for her.

We frolicked in the snow and got to see an endless array of mountains from the top of the one we had ascended.

       We returned to lake Bohinj and then made our way back to our 'new' home in Slovenia.

It will be hard to leave here tomorrow but we vow to return one day. We head to country number three and look for more adventures and wondrous sights. Maybe even some more good food. Who knows?

Beautiful Lake Bled or Boy Do our Legs Hurt?

                                          Walking Around Lake Bled

       Well we did it! Walking a few miles might seem easy for most people but for us it is a challenge. I have two knees that need replacing and a bad foot. Two years ago Lynda broke her right leg and ankle. Last year she tore the ligaments in her left ankle and broke her left wrist so walking is an extreme sport for her as it can be for me. I am so proud of her for this is the farthest she has walked in years.
        Lynda was a trooper and after a little coaxing we headed out to trek around Lake Bled. We stopped often to rest, go the bathroom, eat lunch, have a Krema Rezina or another pastry, view the scenery or a combination of all. By the way the pastries and food here is terrific!

This a little delicacy called Prekmurska Gibanica

We took our time, leaving in the morning after we went for groceries and ate breakfast. We got to see the island and it's chruch from all sides today.

The day started cloudy and I was in long sleeves but soon the sun came out and I went to the short sleeved shirt as it reached 20 degrees Celsius.
       The Lake trail was full of every type of person, of whom I am sure we were the slowest. There were old Grandmas like us, young people pushing strollers, cyclists, joggers, rollerbladers and the wheeled train that takes tourists around. There were kayakers, rowers, scullers and tiny tour boats much like gondolas skimming across the water.

The World Rowing Champs, 2011 Were Held Here

      
We saw ducks and mute swans and tiny colored birds only my brother Reed could identify or maybe our Boerne friend Ruth.

A duck is a duck is a duck...



Mute swans- had to watch out because they attack!

 Dogs were being walked and then we came upon this.


Looks like a black bear, and we should know, we're Canadian,eh!

 Was it a dog or a bear? There were beautiful picturesque homes and tiny wild flowers along the way.

       When the clouds of the morning lifted the sun was uncovered as well as the mountain tops. These were gorgeous sights as they capped off the beauty of the lake, its famous island and the castle that stands watch over everything from it's perch atop the cliff.

Beat this: island church, castle, snow-capped mountains.

        When we were in sight of the town Lynda breathed a sigh of relief, my knees said a prayer of thanksgiving and we headed to a small wine bar to celebrate our victory. The Slovenian wines are amazing, easily comparable to the wines of Italy! After that we decided to encircle the lake once again, but this time we took the 'train'.

Resting the tired legs!

       Tomorrow we will conquor the island in a boat though we have decided that the rowing action will only make my rotator cuff tear more painful so we'll let someone else power the boat. This might not be as romantic, much like when we were younger on the Avon in Stratford, but alas we are older now (that event is chronicled in the second John Doyle Mystery, "Precious Package"). We also will do the castle and then if I can get Lynda to open her eyes we might head up a nearby mountain in a cable car and see the top of the world.

Beautiful Bled

                                            On The Road Again

       I like water more than most people but it was good to be on terra firma again. You can actually feel the ground(?) shift in Venice underneath you. The first night we were at a reataurant and I felt I was still flying, my body was shifting up and down. Lynda thought her vertigo had come back but Giorgio reassured us that sometimes the grounds shift depending on the tides etc. Today we traveled by rental car to Slovenia.
       Before I write about our second country,Slovenia, I need to tell you about rest stops in Italy along the autostrada. They are cultural experiences in their own way. To go to the bathroom you are expected to donate a small sum of your choice to use the toilet. This pays for the ladies who clean. Early in my travels to Italy you would have to pay for toilet paper or you couldn't use it. Think of the implications of not paying. The toilets are in the basement of the rest stops. On the first floor these places have cafes, sell beer and wine(and grappa), pastas, salamis, sandwiches to go and all sorts of games for kids to play in the car and gifts to take home. Sometimes foreigners would even offer to wash your windows for you.
       We left a country in which we are comfortable with the language to one we have to guess at words. Fortunately so far we have come across people who speak English. The TV in our 5 room apartment, a 42 inch flat screen, is filled with English-speaking programs with Slovenian sub-titles. That's one way they have been socialized into the English culture. By the way our apartment which has a view of an ancient castle on a hill overlooking the lake at Bled costs us 70 Euro a night. After Venice, that's dirt cheap.(no pun intended on the dirt versus water metaphor)

High above Lake Bled

       The Lake is beautiful and the island on the lake is quaint with an old church on it.

The Island with the Church

Tomorrow I hope to convince my wife to walk around the lake(6 km.), row out to the island and tour the castle. What are my chances she'll do all this?
       The lake is in the Julian Alps that border Austria. They still are capped with snow. One that we see from the lake is over 9000 feet high.

Snow-capped Alps

       To tempt her we walked into the town tonight and sat at a coffee bar by the lake and ate the specialty dessert of Bled, the Krema Rezina.

I had one myself!

Maybe with enough of these she'll make it around the lake. I heard that there are restaurants around the lake. Hopefully they'll serve the delicacy. I'll let you know how that turns out in my next posting.