The Beach and the Mountain Lake

                           La Spiaggia e Il Lago Montagna (the beach and the mountain lake)

       Now we are in more familiar territory, the province of Le Marche, Italy. We have been coming here for the last 10 years and are not only familiar with the roads and some of the towns but also with a few people here. One of our friends we always visited, Laurence Barker, moved back to San Antonio a week before we embarked on this adventure.
       Yesterday was a brilliant day. The sun was shining brightly, the sky was devoid of clouds and the temperature was about 26 Celsius. We decided that if we were going to the beach then this had to be the day we would go, just in case we got some bad weather. Lynda made us a picnic lunch and we headed to Porto Portenza  and found a nice stretch of sandy beach.

The Sandy Beach on the Italian Side of the Adriatica

It is the same water that we swam in on the Croatian side but the beach was sandy and the water not quite as clear. There were, however, boats for fishing and water for swimming in.

Fishing Boats

       There were topless sun bathers(no pictures included) as is the custom here in Italy. I don't mind but Lynda has to stop me from gawking. We called our friend Michael and he was free and joined us for some drinks on the beach. Later his lovely wife Liliana joined us. We agreed to meet on Sunday and celebrate my 65th B-day.
       After we went back and showered our gracious host Azzurra made us a reservation at a beach restaurant where the food was delicious and plentiful.

Octopus with Potato: An Antipasto

       Today we headed to the small town of Sarnano that we had fallen in love with 10 years ago and is the reason for my e-mail address.

Some older Italians Talking about the Problems of the World?

We stopped at some spots we enjoyed there, saw a few familiar faces and then headed up into the Sibilinni Mountains and to Lake Fiastra. (we didn't walk around this one)

A Green Lake

There we had another great lunch and Lynda finished it with a Tartuffo Nero while I digested my meal od pasta with cinghiale(wild boar).


Fattening?

Love the Wild Boar Sauce

We went to the top of the mountains and saw the remnants of the winter's snowfall.

Snow Still There in May

Lynda was happy because we drove this time. We returned back to our apartment but not without seeing fields of poppys that dotted the landscape and many signs that told us to beware of cattle crossing.


Look out for those cows!!!!

Fields of Poppys

       My Italian is coming back to me rapidly. Yesterday I could understand my friend Michael's entire conversation to his wife and today a lady at a coffee bar in Sarnano, when see asked if we wanted in a glass, I told her in Italian what I wanted . She said I speak Italian, was happy, and proceeded to finish the order in Italian and I reciprocated. Thank you Lynda, my beautiful Italian teacher.

Solitude

                                                                 Solitude
       I'm sitting outside in the glorious sunshine in Le Marche, Italy writing this blog entry. To my left I get a teasing glimpse of the sea, to my middle view of hills and  valleys and to my right the pretty pergola covered with wild yellow and white roses.

The Hills and the Valleys(from our front pergola)

The Pergola and Wild Roses

      I'm playing 'catch' with the two dogs who rule the area. One is a boxer, Teti, and the other a Shepherd, Kira.

These two large ladies bring me rocks and old toys and God know what to throw around the yard( or garden) as they say it.

Lynda Played With the Dogs(she was so happy there weren't any steps!!!

     We are at an agriturismo( meaning out in the country) where there are sounds of roosters crowing, birds chirping and the small cars whizzing down the collines(hills) on the narrow back roads. Every once and while a butterfly or a bee whizzes past my ears. After the noise of the old town of San Marino, these five days will be welcome.
       I'm usually prepared and have no trouble finding the places we are to stay at but this time I neglected to print out directions. I knew the town nearby so we stopped at the 'Osteria del Vinco' for pranza where we also asked for directions. The owner, showing how gracious Italians are, told us to follow him in his car. He took us exactly to our location. After a 'grazie mille' he was on his way and we were at our lovely domicile for the next five nights.
      The place is called 'Le Rose e I Bambu' where the roses grow in compatibility with the bamboo.

I Bambu

Our hostess, Azzurra Giannazzi, has been most helpful and set up our breakfast pantry with cheese, salami, the tiny little square toasts we love here, coffees, teas, homemade jams, and last night brought over a special breakfast cake she made that day.
     Since we are far into the countryside our cell phone only works outside, much like when we lived in Lufkin, and the internet can be only connected out there also. Her husband came home from work and between the two of us we set up a Telecom Italia connection for us. The breeze is blowing a gentle warmth as the day is sunny and clear. It looks like it will be a day at the beach for us. Lynda is making a picnic lunch for the beach and tonight we'll have another great Italian dinner at some unknown restaurant.

Things I didn't expect to see In San Marino

                                            Mafia, Torture and Other Sights in San Marino

       Last night when we arrived in San Marino I explained how a policewoman stopped us and wouldn't let us go into the old city. It seems there was to be a large protest that night in front of the Piazza Pubblica where the Governor lived.

The Governor's Palace

They were protesting the influence of the Mafia on the local police. It is very new to San Marino and the people don't want them involved in their lives like in much of Italy. San Marino, another World Heritage site, has always been a home of peace and neutrality. It has it's own Statue of Liberty, made Abraham Lincoln a honorary citizen in 1860 and was a haven for about 100,000 refugees during World War Two, so it was natural that they don't want Mafia/police involvement.
       The view from our window was spectacular as we could see for miles, even to the ocean when the sun was out.

Miles and Miles of Fields

As we set out for our 'tourist' thing this morning we were dressed in sweaters and jackets and carried umbrellas. Though they were necessary at times we could also had shorts and T-shirts on when the sun came out. We saw where they held the ancient/modern crossbow competitions.

Crossbow Viewing Area

The most exciting thing of the day for me was the Museo della Tortura.

Nightmares Tonight?

Being a history buff and researching a topic about torture for one of my books I was extremely satisfied to see the racks, the finger choppers, the chair of spikes, a metal chastity belt, executioner's swords and the infamous Judas Cradle. The pictures will speak for themselves. It was disturbing to note that most of these were aimed against women who were blasphemous, adulterers and thieves. Such torture still goes on in several countries today.


The Judas Cradle- right up the rectum or other orifices!

These Could Solve the Birth Control Issue

This Could Hurt Anywhere It was Put

Just Some Everyday Necklaces

They Sat You Down and Tightened Everything Up

Executioner's Swords- still used today!

Finger Torture

If You Survived It Made You Grow an Inch

      There were towers that guarded the cities and stone gates that served as entrance points along it's wall.

The Great Wall

We did get to see the changing of the guard at the Governor's Palace.

Changing the Guard-Quite Impressive

I almost walked to the top of the tower but remembered the promise I made to my legs in Plitvice and the look on Lynda's face when she saw how steep it was turned out to be the deciding factor.

Too Steep For Our Legs

       For all my teacher friends, in the last two days the city has been filled with school field trips from all over the area. Not only elementary, but middle and high school age.
      Tomorrow we are headed to a farm in Italy, Le Marche province, where we will stay for five days and do what we want.

Cruising!

                                          Cruising the Adriatic and Other Things

       I lied to you all. We are now in our fourth country, San Marino, which is one of the smallest countries in the world. But first let me tell you how we got here.
       We left the pretty Croatian isle of Hvar and spend some quality time in Split. We had a couple of meals near the ancient ruins of Diocletian's Palace which they are restoring into restaurants, souvenir shops and bars much like many of our city centers are doing with their old train stations.
After wandering around, seeing the sights, killing time until our ship was ready to sail we were waiting, first in line, to go through customs and to embark on our night cruise across the Adriatic to Ancona, Italy.
       These boats are similar to Gulf cruise ships, complete with buffets, self-serve restaurants, fancy dining and casinos.

Ruins soon to be Restored

Our "luxury" ferry/cruise ship!!

We booked a cabin for the night and since I'm a bit claustrophobic, I made sure we had a cabin with a window. It gave us a great view of the Split coastline and of the lights of the various islands as we made our way out to see.

One Coastline of Split

Since it gets light early we saw oil tankers and fishing boats on the water below us on the horizon.
       We had a nice meal at the restaurant, checked out the casino and found that the smoke bothered us both and headed to our cabin.

Lynda's happy that I'm not driving!

After a good night's sleep we woke to public address announcer announcing we soon would be landing in Ancona. Since it was early we stopped at an Auto Grille for a brioche and an espresso. Our plan for the day was to visit the best pizza we have ever had in all of Italy at the Buffalo Brothers restaurant in Rimini.

The Best Pizza Around!

        Last year when we stayed in Rimini we fell in love with the place and they remembered us after we walked through the door. We talked with our waiter, Giovanni, about old times and ordered some delicious dishes before we had our pizza.

Our Friend Giovanni

Lentil and Barley Soup with a Black Olive Pesto

The Buffalo brothers make the buffalo mozzarella which is 100% better than regular mozzarella. Our pizza was delicious and since we were considered regulars we got special treatment. Not just bread with dinner but a special pizza bread they only give to their preferred customers. When our meal was over he brought out the limoncello, on the house, and a special pistachio sorbet, also gratis.
       After a ciao! to our friend Giovanni we headed up to San Marino, a country we found by chance last year and wanted to stay there if we ever got the chance. As is our luck it was a national holiday and parking, already at a premium was being denied by a policewoman. She did allow me to walk the  small streets to the hotel to see what we could do about our bags. After getting misplaced (men never get lost) I found the hotel and surmised that there was no way Lynda was going to drag our luggage up there. The proprietors of the hotel, after I told them I would have to cancel because I wasn't letting my wife walk up there with her bad ankles sent a man with me back to the car, bargained with the policewoman and then we drove up the mountain to the hotel and deposited our luggage. He drove back with me to another parking lot where I was able to park with a special pass for two days. Only in Italy.
       More about San Marino in the next post. It might surprise you.


      

Island Paradise

                            Croatian Islands: Very Pristine and QUIET!

       I've been to many coastlines but this one, after a two hour ferry ride, is very beautiful. It reminds me of the Amalfi coast, without the tourists, hustle and bustle and high costs.

Our Ship

       We started out at Split where we were pleasantly surprised to see another open market in progress. We bought some fresh strawberries and bananas and a few T-shirts. The market and the area around the many car ferries were a beehive of activity.

The Busy Market

Cars, walkers, hikers and tour busses went every which way, almost colliding withy each other. Twice we heard the squealing of tires and once a mother and child in a stroller almost got taken out.
       It was a relief for us to be on a boat heading across the islands that mark the Dalmation Coast. I guess you could say they are spotted with the islands along the coastline.

Lighthouse on one of the Islands

Our target island was Hvar and our target town the small municipality of Milna (means 'beautiful'). The water here is crystal clear, much likes the lakes we tromped around two days ago.
       Our host came across the sea also on a ferry to open the house for us where our apartment was. She came especially for us since we were their first guests of the season. Our place has one large bedroom, a kitchenette, a living/eating area and best of all a balcony overlooking the sea.

Sunset from our Balcony

A Cool Beach

I am presently at a beach restaurant writing this since the w-fi connection at our place had not yet been turned on. I'm eating grilled lamb as I write.

A Grilled Lamb Feast

       I braved the coolness of the water, much cooler than Texas waters at this time of year. It was a needed relief from the heat which we have found to be much greater than I expected. I put my swim goggles on and chased the fish around, or vice versa. Tomorrow we must leave this island paradise and head on a night ferry (we have a cabin for two booked) to Ancona, Italy.

I talked My Legs Into It: A Day in Plitvice National Park, Croatia

                                                The Never Ending Trail

       When I woke up this morning my legs and I had a long talk. I promised that if they held out for the day on the trails of Plitvice National Park that I would be kind to them the rest of our vacation. They agreed so Lynda and I set out to explore the wonders of the Park. This Park was once a river but through time and geologic phenomenon had caused the limestone to dam it up in several places resulting in sixteen lakes and waterfalls connecting them all, some small, some slow, some magnificent and some powerful.

One of Many Falls

The 'walk' took us about six hours to accomplish. This is 'my legs' story.
       We were full of pep, energy and anticipation as we trekked to the park's entrance.

Most of this was downhill on a gradual slope but we were reminded that what goes down must come up. We came across this unusual toilet which reminded me of days of yore in Europe where there was no functioning toilet seat, just places for your feet.

Ladies, would you use this?

       A large diesel train/ bus took us to the top of the trailhead and we were happy that mark had chosen to walk downward and not the opposite. This began our journey over hewn log walkways and stairs, through paths in the forest, around rock formations and over the water itself sometimes.

Rock Trails

Wooden Trails

      With each new lake there was a new set of waterfalls, making noise and crashing down below, sometimes on our feet and misting our bodies. We saw ducks cuddled up like Mark and Lynda often did.

We saw fish of all sizes swimming in the Amalfi Coast pristine clear water.

There were underwater rock formations which resembled the time we went to the islands off Mexico. Each new turn provided us with new excitement and a gathering storm of joint pain.
      At about two thirds into the trek we began to curse Mark and thankfully a boat was there to take us the length of the longest lake.

Thanks For the Boat

We were able to rest for a half hour on this electric boat. It seems that no one is allowed to fish, swim or motor in this set of virginal lakes. I overheard Mark saying North Americans should take a few lessons from the Croatians. This is probably why they have it listed as a World Heritage site.

      After a short break we were on our way to find the "Big Waterfall". On the map Mark held it looked like it was just around the corner, but after a few more lakes and a treacherous downhill it was not to be found. Lynda could be heard saying words children shouldn't hear as her feet were giving out on her. The only good thing is that Mark was saying, "not much longer, dear." We've heard that before, haven't we?

       We were pinching and throbbing but soon we saw the "Big Waterfall" and it lived up to it's name. Now only to find the train again.

A Welcome Sight

There it was and not too soon. Mark and Lynda were rewarded at the end with a few refreshments and strudels.

Another Welcome Sight!

We made it but we made him promise not to do this again. We can't wait until we have a day of driving tomorrow and perhaps a dip in the Adriatic. We deserve it.